Mouth-watering kebabs, scented biryani, and whipped, cloud-like desserts.
The metropolis in India's north of Lucknow has long been a food lovers' paradise, with inhabitants and travelers equally praising its remarkable cuisine.
Worldwide Recognition
Last month, The United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization recognised it as a UNESCO Creative City for Gastronomy – including it in a select list of global cities and kindling hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's peerless food. With this status, it becomes part of a worldwide network of more than four hundred cities across more than 100 countries focused on promoting "innovation as a key factor of city development that is sustainable".
The honor "demonstrates its profound gastronomic legacy and lively food ecosystem," as stated by a spokesperson from UNESCO's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was picked in 2019 – to earn a spot in this highly sought-after list of 70 global destinations around the world.
A Metropolis Shaped by Cuisine
The recognition for this venerable city is no surprise to its locals or passionate food lovers. Many agree with the view that it is "an honor long overdue".
With the UNESCO recognition, this adored, bustling, and diverse city – the capital of India's largest state – is at last in the limelight for what has perennially shaped its soul: an profound passion for food.
"'What's for dinner, how should it be prepared' is a ongoing conversation from morning until night in many homes," states a local cultural expert. "And you are often evaluated by the quality of food that is produced in your kitchen."
A Royal Culinary Legacy
The Nawabi City – as it's popularly called after its historic wealthy Muslim rulers – is famed for its melt-in-the-mouth kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were created, perfected, and raised to extraordinary levels in their royal kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were centers of food experimentation, merging Iranian and indigenous Indian styles to create what became known as the culinary tradition of Awadh.
It was during this time that Lucknow's most famous kebabs were fashioned. The story goes that the mutton galouti was invented to cater to an ageing nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His chefs processed the meat with papaya, saffron, and spices and made it so fine that it needed no chewing.
But arguably the greatest contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a low, leisurely heat, with the container's cover securely closed with dough.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
Besides the well-known kebabs and biryani, the cooks also built up a collection of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not just about kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a vegetarian's paradise.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine not only celebrates fresh harvests but also provides the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Time-Tested Food Joints
Virtually on many street corners, there are little shops and stalls – lesser-known delights that are immensely favored by the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, large gatherings start assembling from the crack of dawn at a renowned tea stall to get a piping hot cup of milky masala chai, served in kulhads, along with pillowy soft buns slathered with freshly churned white butter.
To start the day, one can make their way to a unpretentious joint located in the old city area of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was founded, the place is still much sought-after for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage
The city also presents unique seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert savored in the winter. The process of making it is precise and complicated. The artisan beats the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the dew to give it its unique airy feel.
On cold mornings, street vendors are often seen in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Some but say that their younger generation are reluctant to learn the craft.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has noted that the city's rich food legacy places it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The real value from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will materialize only if Lucknow can now build recognition about its hidden eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow tells a story – influenced by multi-generational food businesses, from modest street carts to bustling restaurants, and guarded family recipes.
The global recognition, it is hoped, will inspire more people worldwide to learn these tales and visit the city to savour the food wonders of Lucknow.
