Whenever compiling a roll of London’s best restaurants, one might anticipate familiar Michelin-starred venues. However, nestled prominently among these food giants is a modest salonu situated in a outlying part of northern London.
This little Turkish restaurant, concentrating in the specialties of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s southern coast, has been declared the fourth finest restaurant in the city by a prominent food magazine. This recognition has left the owners utterly surprised.
“I’m completely shocked,” remarks the family member, alluding to his family’s dedication that culminated in their small place earning such a high spot on a prestigious 99-strong list.
This compact space, which started as a basic cafe before its conversion into a popular food hotspot, has kept much of its former charm. It fits just over 20 people and, except for the vibrant live cooking performance, the setup remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate spot,” notes the owner.
In the end, it’s focused on the fare, and this establishment more than excels. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a simple pleasure. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to keep a tender consistency.
It is then added into a massive pan with seasonings and oil, which are mixed in bit by bit. When the meaty mixture starts to simmer, homemade lavaş—a soft bread—is slapped on top to absorb all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley go inside before the tasty meat is wrapped tightly inside.
The wrap is typically enjoyed with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a strong slap of taste, with soft hints of sumac, punchy onions and rich, paprika-red oil pulling it all in harmony.
Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is chopped and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A prominent food critic described this dish “a part of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.
For a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe proves a treat. It is doused in a more modest amount of syrup than found elsewhere, resulting in it a more intense, more aromatic and not overly sweet profile.
Notably, this unassuming spot has outplaced several renowned three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself near the summit of the list, following other esteemed dining destinations.
While two people could easily leave this place full for under £25, similar meals at high-end establishments can start at significantly more than that amount.
It is also part of several Turkish restaurants featured and is found well beyond the city’s central zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an expensive city. It is assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and best food but I do not subscribe to that,” says the owner.
“In my view what is crucial is friendliness, kindness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”
This sentiment is supported by the list’s editor, who remarked that if he was in a position of power, he would “insist to make every chef in London come to this restaurant as a final lesson, to teach them the dangers of excess, and to show what is possible if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their very best”.
Unlike most chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food did not train at fancy establishments. “I am very proud of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son.
Numerous restaurants require years to find their footing, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its acclaim is thanks to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of effort.
“Our mum would be very tired. She would go shopping in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. All of it is made by hand; she would manage all of this. She is a single mother and she had a personal life but her friends would support her to support her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. All of these duties shaped her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he reflects.
This restaurant’s accolade is likely to resonate outside its own doors. “I believe numerous people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” says the owner, emphasising the greater importance of this culinary triumph.
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